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Bolivia

(Lake Titicaca - La Paz - Oruro - Potosí - Uyuni)

Lake Titicaca and the lonelyness of the SALT desert

[February 11, 2005] The Lake Titicaca really dominates the North of Bolivia, at 4000 Meters higth with a stunning view and nature around it. I take the small border entry direct at the lake and get the experience of crossing the lake with these special ferry boats, wooden boards and improvisation get me to the other side, one of the poorest areas of South America.

After a few hours I arrive in the traffic chaos of La Paz. You can buy gasoline again and there are no more roadblocks, but La Paz is one dirty place. So I decide to continue directly to Oruro. The KTM sounds awful with this low octane gas until I buy one of these bottles of Octane booster. Poor bike, poor engines here in Bolivia...

Oruro is an old mining town. The mountain has been worked on for centuries and looks like a Swiss cheese, the town itself as well is not too atractive. Potosi however is still showing its old colonial buildings of the high time in the 16th century being one of the richest and biggest cities in South America. And today it is a mixture of all cultures in Bolivia, Indios,white Bolivianos and Tourists.

Then I head South through the mountains towards Uyuni, the starting point for all crossings through the salt deserts to Chile. The Salar itself it not crossable for my bike, half a meter water and a soft crust are not drivable. I decide to take the passage through the mountains and only do know 4 days later the endurance I was heading for: Blood, Sweat and Tears...

It´s rainy season here, that means that the fu.... rivers are high and the KTM needs to learn swimming. I do cross around 100 rivers, 7 high passes above 5000 Meters in mud and snow,



freeze at minus 15 degrees Celcius on the farms where I find shelter at night. And am so lucky that the people here are so open and supportive to a loco aleman. The fight of the KTM and myself vs. The nature really gets tough. I push the bike up the passes through half a meter of mud. And I need to lift up the bike many times a day, sometimes even recover it from offside the little roads. Very exhausting and after 10 hours and maximum 100 Kilometers I am done... And hit the floor in a farmhouse, at least dry and sheltered.

On the next day the same story continues. Another set of deep rivers to cross, then up to above 5200 meters altitude. On the third day after 9 hours the KTM quits the job, I have drowned her in the Rio Grande. Too much, defeat... I need to recover the bike out of the river and finally after 2 hours of repair and exchange of filters and spark plug the KTM runs again, a little wonder, no? Of course its raining like hell. And again the people in a small village close by are very helpful and allow me in the farm house, again dry and tired. Super people, poor but so supportive.

After 4 days in mud and totally exhausted and wet I arrive in the desert reagion of the Salar de Uyuni. And here I get my pay back, clear blue sky and a faszinating nature are the treat for the hardest day during my Panam by far. The salt lakes, Flamingos and a moon landscape, all above 4000 Meters. Incredible. And a light with reflections are surrounded by high snow covered vulkanoes, great view.



After these faszinating 50 Kilometers I finally get to the border. And am totally exhausted but proud of the KTM and myself. I have made it.

Bolivia, what a great country despise the poverty, but one needs to fight for the payback here.


Hasta la proxima,

Rasmus