Chile
(San Pedro de Atacama - Chanaral - Santiago - Temuco - Santiago)
Continuing on the Panamericana
South
[February 24, 2005] The first shower after the 5 days, a
cold Cerveza and giving the KTM the deserved treatment were
among the first things I did once having arrived in San Pedro
de Atacama, a town in the Atacamadesert. At the first glance
there is hardly anything in this area, one of the dryiest
areas in the world. Then one looks again and discoveres the
mining areas here, for silver, copper, gold, zinc etc. That
has helped the area to a fair wealth over the past, but also
triggered conflicts and wars with Chiles neighboring countries
Peru and Bolivia. And still one can see the warning signs
for landmines
left and right of the streets. This brought me back too quick
to reality, sad enough
After too many weeks in the deserts I have had enough and
throttled up. In Santiago, a very modern city, I serviced
my bike and got new tires for the last distance South. And
having explored the life and nightlife in Santiago I also
was happy to hit the road again, leaving with the lesson that
here everything is superorganized and fewer people seem to
laugh
I am very happy as finally I see the Green again, trees, forests
and the vineyards. Here grows the famous Chilenian wine, great.
And I want to meet my 2 Dutch friends, Dirk and Sander, in
Puerto Montt.
And then the worst happens. Close to Temuco in the South,
at tour Kilometer 32500 (or 50249 total) the heart of the
KTM stops beating. My first aid and the diagnosis: A tough
stroke!
O.K., I organized a car, transported the bike back to the
KTM dealership in Santiago and we operate! The reason was
really bad gas with only 78 Octane in Bolivia and the endurance
with that crap in the altitude
The piston broke. And
the rest damage was caused by the parts. The Octanebooster
I bought in Bolivia did not help much, eh?
After 3 days in intensive care, new piston, cylinder and all
bearings
but also some thousand bucks poorer the heart beats again
and I head South to Chillan to finally meet my Dutch friends
there.
The reunion is a great party, we laugh and talk and exchange
the trip details, but I also get to face some nasty jokes
about the recent events
Shit happens.
And finally I am now continuing my journey South with new
spirit and a new heart really open for all that happens. Knowing
I always have an answer. And I will enjoy the 2000 miles South
to the goal Usuahia.
(Chillan - Pucon - Carretera Austral)
Volkanoes and the wild South
[March 18, 2005] I am leaving the busy coastal area of Chile
and hope to find a rather quiet place in the Lake Distrikt
in the South. And get greeted by the fazsinating volkanoe
Villarrica.
He dominates the area, allows with its lakes and hot springs
the tourism in this area and is surrounded by a dream of nature,
parks and dirttracks. A dream for every biker. And here I
meet Peter and Frank. They both take me on their favorite
tours and tracks and I experience the other world of that
volkanoe, far away of any tourism. Good life. We slide on
little paths, cross rivers and play in the mud, enjoy every
minute of that life. For 2 weeks I explore the area and the
local BBQ and wine specialities, I need to learn the local
way of life. And it was a real good one...
Then the autumn comes with the first storm, wind and low
temperatures, but also showing its bright colors known from
New England as the Indian summers. For me its a definite sign
to head South, Ushuaia is still 2000 miles more South, sounds
easy after my 20000 miles so far but I do expect some surprises.
But after all these miles the KTM and myself have become really
flexible in all means.
I take the little ferry from Puerto Montt to Chaiten, the
starting point of the Carretera Austral, the street leading
to the wild South of Chile.
And here I find the wilderness of the mountains and dark
forests.
Instantly I have to think of Alaska and the North of Canada,
the similarity of the pictures is stunning. The dirtroad leads
me through a tough countyside, small and dark, then wide and
open. And suddenly I meet a group of 10 KTMs heding North.
Its the KTM dealer Roland and his group of Austrians, they
drove up from Punta Arenas. And we exchange news and they
give me good tips for my way South.
Autumn now clearly takes over with strong winds, max 10 degrees
C and rain from the right. But I have got a good mood and
strong will and can enjoy this beautiful country. And then
the lakes show me their beautiful colors. It seems that close
to the poles all colors appear stronger and brighter, now
with different tones of blue, green and red. Stunning...
In Coyhaique I camp in a forest near a Hostel, the odor and
the sounds remind me again of the time in northern Canada.
Then I arrive at the Lago Buenos Aires, which dominates here
the border area with Argentina. I hardly meet any tourists
and am the only stranger in the town of Cochrane, my most
southern point in this wild and beautiful part of Chile. And
see and eat the Beef, I love it.
With this intensive countryside I say good-bye to Chile and
I will remember this Southern part very well. It´s so
different from the loud, fast and Erupoean North...
Hasta la vista
Rasmus, now really heading South
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