Nicaragua
(Estela - Granada - Managua - Isla Ometepe - Playa del Flor)
Cigars and Nature
[November 20, 2004] Again we needed the aid of one of these
tramitadores to cross the border within a reasonable time,
just 3 hours and 15 $ per person, a bargain. And we all were
happy to leave Honduras fast.
Now we were in the poorest countries within Central America,
the signs of the war were still visible almost everywhere!
But the people here do not carry on the burdons or the sadness
of these times, that´s history now and happiness and
laughters are everywhere! We stayed one night in Esteli in
the North and test the local Bars and Clubs. Everywhere a
friendly and happy atmosphere, no signs of jealousy towards
us foreigners. People stop and ask us about our journey and
the bikes, whether at the gas station or in the bars.
Our next stop is Granada, but that´s pretty filled
with tourists already leading also to the sideeffects of prostitution
and drugs
Well, where the Dollar is
We find a nice and friendly hostel at Don Alfredo, an older
German running a small hotel here in Granada. And he also
has good tips for our excursions in the next days. So we visit
the grand market in Masaya, one of the biggest ones in Central
America. And drive and climb on the Vulcano Mombacha. Lot´s
of nature and a great vista, and a really well organized national
park here surprise us.
That´s when you expect a little - we got treated very
good.
And we took the time and visited the local Cigar production
of Dona Elba, a top product. And the Don Silvio itself showed
us his factory and let us taste the different products. What
an afternoon!
The next day I took off to meet Volker and his family in Managua.
He lives and works in Central America now for more than a
decade and knows the areas very well. His tips combined with
the knowledge of Bjorn and other friends already secured us
very nice days. Thanks guys!
And I got deeply involved into the political situation as
there were Alcalde elections (town mayors) on the evening.
And the family showed up late to celebrate! Good look for
the future, Nicaragua.
After that we spend a few days on the beautiful island of
Ometepe, right in the middle of the lake Nicaragua with a
unique world of plants and animals, a juwel. And I a full
of a positive belief that with the current trend of ecotourism
this could continue. I hope it.
That looks totally different on the Pacific coast. Where ever
there are good streets and an airport you will find better
hotel resorts and the tourism we all know all over the world,
here still just starting now. So we decided to go on along
the coastline on a smaller road. And that brought us to the
Playa del Flor, where we could participate in one of these
rare days of luck - the turtle coming on the beach. An unbelievable
show, when these prehistoric creatures crawl on the beach
and dig a hole of 2 feet, then spawn 100 eggs and close it
carefully to crawl tired back to the sea. Once again I was
very quiet and could see the power of the world - stunning
and clearly one wonder!
On the next day we had to get back to the Panamericana, easy
16 miles we thought. Well, the first river crossings were
easy for the KTM and the little Hondas learned swimming
But then the dirt road got smaller and narrower, the road
was now only for mules and horses. And we with the bikes in
the deep shit, the word fits
In one hour we barely made half a mile, the purified water
was almost finished. And a military boarder post is mad, runs
at us with the AK47 aimed. Not good. Well, again the magic
words Aleman and Holondase solve the situation and we continue
our fight through the mud. After 7 hours we finally arrive
at the Panamericana again totally exhausted and tired, no
water left. We decide to drive to the next town for the overnight
stay and the necessary service work. Even a flat tire on Dirks
Honda cannot shock us now anymore. And after the cleaning
of the bike, the freshly oiled chain and finally our strongly
needed shower we deserved the ice-cold Buffalo beer, our cigar
and the atmosphere of the local bars. And tomorrow we will
go for Costa Rica.
Thanks Nicaragua, you are a juwel in Central America, I´ll
be back!
Hasta la proxima!
Rasmus
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